Every time I drive past the stately white Ripon Buildings, I can’t help but turn and admire its timeless grace. Built in 1913, this magnificent structure, which now houses the Corporation of Madras (Greater Chennai Corporation), is one of Chennai’s most enduring colonial landmarks.
Recently, I finally got to step inside this architectural gem, thanks to the Heritage Walks organized by Nam Veedu, Nam Ooru, Nam kadhai. These walks are held four days a week — Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday — from 8 to 9:30 AM. And here’s the best part: it’s absolutely free! You can register online.
Our guide for the day, Mugilan, an architect by profession, looked every bit the part of a cool heritage buff — clad in veshti and shirt, and brimming with enthusiasm for Chennai’s history.
It was especially heartening to see many children join the walk. They were curious, excited, and full of questions — the kind of eager young minds that make you feel hopeful about our city’s love for heritage continuing into the next generation.
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Quick Heritage Nuggets
The Madras Corporation is the second oldest municipal corporation in the world, after London’s — established way back in 1688.
Originally housed in George Town, it later shifted to this grand new building designed by Loganatha Mudaliar. Though he first quoted ₹3.5 lakhs, the actual cost doubled, and he was eventually paid in instalments.
The unique bricks were custom-made to match the column shapes — rounded and circular — and were supplied by Nam Perumal Chettiar, the “brick baron” of those days. Most red colonial buildings in Chennai were built using his bricks.
The building’s Madras roof, high ceilings, and wrought iron columns keep the interiors cool — a fine example of the architectural brilliance of that era.
It was inaugurated by Lord Ripon, the then Governor-General of British India. Fun fact: his real name was George Frederick Samuel Robinson, and “Ripon” was actually the place he hailed from — hence the title Lord Ripon.
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Inside the Building
A grand wooden staircase adorned with a chandelier greets you as you step in — the kind of staircase that makes you imagine British officials walking down in their long coats.
Mugilan shared stories about the British era, the East India Company, and the city’s early governance, making history come alive. Though after a while, it did feel more like a “Heritage Stand” than a “Heritage Walk” — perhaps next time the introduction can happen on those majestic stairs so we can sit and listen!
We climbed up to see the Mayor’s Office and the Council Hall (no photography allowed inside). The hall has a stately aura — an ornate chair for the Mayor, smaller ones for the Deputy Mayors, red velvet seats for 200 councillors, (and 50 extra seats) and portraits of Mahatma Gandhi, Thiruvalluvar, and the Chief Minister gracing the walls.
Visitors can actually attend a council session with a prior visitor pass. A pair of spiral staircases lead to a viewing gallery upstairs for the public.
And yes — the heritage clock! Fashioned after Big Ben, it chimes every hour and still needs to be wound manually each day. Interestingly, the number 4 on its face isn’t the Roman “IV” but “IIII” — an old clockmaker’s tradition.
We ended our walk with a cheerful group photo on the grand staircase. The kids took a while to settle down for the picture — they were too busy running up and down the wooden stairs, delighted by the sound of their own footsteps echoing through the hall.
A Sunday morning well spent.
Heritage clock IIII is an interesting fact.
Well done Megu ! Its interesting that many did not know that Rippon was a place ! You brought the whole building alive with such clarity, warmth, and detail that I felt as if I were walking through it myself. Your ability to notice subtle nuances and turn them into a meaningful narrative is truly special. And the amazing photographs were a beautiful icing on the cake ..
Wow, Megha! What an exciting read! I am totally booking a walk when I am in Chennai next time. I am thrilled to learn that such initiatives are being taken for us all to be more involved and appreciate the history of our city, culture and our country as a whole. Thank YOU, for sharing your experience so your readers can also enjoy this marvelous piece of architecture through your poetic eyes. I thoroughly enjoyed it!
A lovely peep into a historic Chennai heritage site.