Idli Kadhai

Just like filter coffee, the age-old idly has its own secret sauce recipe. Each family guards its little secrets for that spongy, fluffy malligai poo idly. And heaven help the poor soul who gets it slightly wrong—looks of disdain, even pure disgust, follow. “கல் போல இருக்கு…” or “மொழுக்குனு இருக்கு…”—the harsh verdicts of hardcore idly connoisseurs on the efforts of hapless beginners.

In some homes, idly never travels alone. It must arrive with a full entourage—like at Murugan Idli Kadai—a proud row of accompaniments. In others, like mine… the good old molagapodi will do. nothing can beat that. But one thing is non-negotiable: the idly has to be just right. No pakka vaadhiyam? Still fine. Just solo… but perfect solo.

Idly with Chidambaram gotsu is a divine combination—my go-to after a long, tiring day. And when inspiration overflows, I venture into idly with Kumbakonam Kadappa—that gentle cousin of kuruma, enriched with lentils.

Idly with thenga chutney is the default in most homes. In some houses, they may not have even have decided what tiffin to make—but the chutney will be ready! Perhaps the sight of that freshly garnished coconut chutney inspires the choice of tiffin itself.

Idly with sambar—freshly made just for it, with roasted, freshly ground masala, lots of small onion and tomato—is always a winner.

And when guests come for breakfast, ven pongal quietly joins the menu. If there is ven pongal, how can medhu vadai stay away? In it comes—uninvited but most welcome—much to everyone’s delight.

I still remember making idlies for my Punjabi landlord in Delhi. Along with it, I gave her a bottle full of garlic molagapodi. I was too naive to realise that for them, idly meant only with sambar. She had never even seen molagapodi before. I knew not a word of Hindi, and Mrs. Verma could not speak English. So I just smiled sweetly, said “idly,” and handed it over.

Later, she told Senthil that she had to make sambar to eat them—and asked if the chilli powder I gave was meant for preparing the sambar! 😃

In the Chola period, idly was known as idarigai. Urad dal was not part of it then—so it must have been quite hard. Over time, the addition of urad dal transformed it to its current spongy avataar. Stone aatukals gave way to giant grinders, then to sleek tabletop versions… and now, batter comes neatly packed from stores.

For the health-conscious and sugar watchers like me, rice is substituted by millets. It is indeed an acquired taste but Dr Pal will be very happy with my choice. 😃

And idly… has taken on many avatars:

idly fry… rava idly… semiya idly… idly upma…

Kanchipuram idli… thattu idly… idly Manchurian… even idly thayir—where soft idlies replace vadai in curd.

For babies… it is idly with ghee.

For elders… idly mashed with rasam.

For the sick… idly with buttermilk.

For children… idly fry.

Simple. Adaptable. Eternal.

Today is World Idli Day. 30th March.

Idly…

நீ வாழ்க வளமுடன்.

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