Achalpuram, where Thirugnanasambandar sang his final song.

Fortunate to have learnt the first as well as the last thevaram of Thirugnanasambandar. (One of the Naalvar Saints) The first Thodudauya seviyan was sung on the banks of the Brahmapureeswarar temple at Sirkali when the saint was barely 4 years. The last Kaadhalaagi Kasindhu was sung at a place now called Achalpuram , known as Naloor Perumanam in the times of the saint. A full circle of divine devotion.

Taking a road which leads to Achalpuram from Kollidam, just beyond the town of Chidambaram, we got entangled in a procession, it was a religious procession with people carrying pots on their head and a few men dressed up like Lord Shiva were walking along.

Finally when we reached the Gopura Vaasal  the sun was high up and it was a blazing hot day, in the month of June. While Senthil parked the car, amma and I slowly walked towards the entrance, admiring the imposing Raja Gopuram.

A local on a two wheeler stopped and asked us whether we had come to witness the two- day Utsavam which was to commence the following day. With visible pride, he went on to describe how vibrant and grand the Utsavam would be, adding that his family was involved in the Anna Dhaanam (distribution of food to all devotees) for the Utsavam.  Away from the bustling Chennai Metro, the people here seemed to be far more friendly and also curious to know about the whereabouts of newcomers. By then Senthil had joined us and we entered the portals hearing the strains of Thevaram being chanted by a group of Student Odhuvars with their Guru. The Mandapam just as we entered had the entire life history of Thirugnanasambandar painted beautifully on the ceiling. Made note and decided that I would take pictures later. We decided to complete our darshan of the moolavar Sivaloga Thyagar. As we entered the inner mandapam, we noticed that the premises were being washed by a group of devotees. A gentleman supervising them kindly cautioned us to step carefully, as the floor was slippery. The Shiva Linga Murthy was majestic, and a priest appeared from within, moving briskly—everyone seemed engrossed in the preparations for the upcoming Utsavam. For a moment, I felt a twinge of guilt, wondering if our visit was disrupting the rhythm of their sacred chores.

Nevertheless he performed the Deepa Aradhanai and after that we slowly came outside, did a pradikshanam pausing to see the Naalvar sanidhis as well as the other Goshta  Murthies. The one which housed Nardhana Ganapathy interestingly had a gopuram sculpted above the Murthy. Not sure in which period that was sculpted. Achalpuram temple had several inscriptions. I had read up that this temple was built during the time of the Imperial Cholas and the inscriptions speak of donations made during the reigns of Rajendra 1, Kulothunga 1 and Raja Raja 3.

After completing the circumambulation, we reached the outer pillared mandapam, where Thirugnanasambandar and his consort, Stotra Poornambigai, were enshrined. Behind the sannidhi was a striking depiction of the saint attaining Mukthi—hand in hand with his wife—as a host of devotees followed them toward a blazing fire. It is well known among Saivites that Thirugnanasambandar was married to Stotra Poornambigai at this very temple, making it a site of profound spiritual and historical significance.

Legend goes that Thirugnanasambandar’s father Sivapada Hrudayar insisted that Sambandar be married as per the tradition of the times. Although Sambandar was unwilling, he agreed to marry Sokkiyaar from Nallur, a neighbouring village, daughter of Nambiandaar Nambi. Thiruneela Nakka Nayanaar, one among the 63 Nayanmars conducted their wedding. Just after their wedding, the divine couple entered the temple at Naloor Perumanam—present-day Achalpuram. It was then that Thirugnanasambandar sang the Thevaram, ‘Kaloor Perumanam Venda Kazhumalam’. With that, he expressed his wish to attain Mukthi and merge with the Supreme. Sokkiyaar, another ardent devotee of Shiva, echoed his sentiments. Perhaps it was all divinely ordained—his life on earth lasted a mere sixteen years, yet it was a life that could rival centuries in depth and devotion, filled with miraculous deeds and over a thousand sacred Padhigams to his name.

A fire engulfed the Sanctum Sanctorum and Sambandar with his wife, who later came to be known as Stotra Poornambigai, along with both their family members, Thiruneela nakka Nayanar, Muruga Nayanar, Neelakanta Yazhpanar walked along with the couple towards the fire. Sambandar sang his last and final Thevaram, the soulful Kadhalaagi Kasindhu each stanza ending with Namasivayave and merged with the divine.

It is said that the other people in the vicinity fled in fear seeing the fire. Nandi appeared before the residents of this town, instructed them to take a dip in the Panchakshara Theertham (which is there right in front) and come into the temple. Legend goes that Goddess Parvathi appeared with the sacred ash, Viboothi and lovingly distributed to all the people present. Finally, every resident of Achalpuram attained Mukthi by entering the fire that day.

Having had darshan at the Thirugnanasambandar Sannidhi and recalled this profound legend, we walked towards the Ambal Sannidhi. The sun was relentless by then, thankfully amma was wearing her temple socks bought from Happy Feet India. The outer praharam was expansive with separate shrines for Vinayagar, Murugan and his consorts as well as the Ambal Sannidhi, called Thiruneetru Umai Ammai. Interestingly, only vibhudhi or sacred ash is given as prasadam instead of Kungumam. The priest also handed us fruits and glass bangles as blessings. I wore the bangles for the rest of the temple visit—and now keep them as a cherished memento of that day.

Achalpuram is also the place where Shiva gave his Kailash darshan to Lord Murugan as well as Sage Vasishta, Parasharar, Brigu and Jamadagni, so I had read somewhere that 3 times Pradhikshina is recommended but since it was so hot, I was unable to do so.

This sacred temple also houses a separate shrine for Rana Vimochanar, where devotees firmly believe that sincere prayers can help clear debts and financial burdens. An extraordinary legend associated with this temple is that of the sage Kakabhujangar, who, overwhelmed by the sanctity of the place, is said to have walked on his head—believing it too holy to let his feet touch the ground. Reminded me of Kaaraikaal Ammaiyaar who was part of the 63 Nayanmaars who also walked on her head to reach Thiruvaalangaadu as well as Mount Kailash as both these places were too sacred for her feet.

The Odhuvars were still singing with fervour, their voices rising in devotional unison. As their chants echoed through the mandapam, I began photographing the exquisite ceiling paintings that depicted the life of Thirugnanasambandar. Then, drawn by the atmosphere, I sat down facing Sivaloga Thyagar and sang softly—first Kaloor Perumanam, followed by Kaadhalaagi Kasindhu Kaneer Malgi—this is why I had insisted on this trip, to sing the thevarams which I had learnt at the very same place it was originally sung.

The Mukthi of Thirugnanasambandar is commemorated each year as an Utsavam on Vaikāsi Moolam day. The celebrations begin with the Upanayanam ceremony (the thread ceremony) for the young saint, followed by his wedding. The Utsavar deities are then taken in a grand procession around the town. Around 4 AM, a sacred fire is lit inside the Garba Griham, and the Utsavar deities are led into the sanctum—re-enacting that divine moment of Mukthi.

As we walked back to the car, I took a quick video of the entrance and just noticed that the mandapam adjacent was named Sokkiyaar Nilayam.

I turned to Amma and said with quiet awe, ‘We have walked on the same sacred soil that Thirugnanasambandar and hundreds of Sivan adiyars once walked.