What are you watching paati?

“What are you watching, Paati?” Akshit asked his grandmother, Padma.

“Today is a grand day at Madurai. The Kumbabishekam of the Madurai Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple! I have told you so many times about this famous temple and the history of Madurai. Today, all roads seem to lead there. Thousands of people are witnessing the Kudamuzhukku in person and lakhs like me are watching it online!”

“Yes, yes, I know,” said Akshit. “You know Sashmita? Her grandparents are from Madurai and she has taken leave to be there for this big event. She said her house is full of relatives!”

“Madurai Meenakshi Amman means something very special to so many people. Do you know that she is one goddess who is believed to appear in the dreams of her devotees?”

“Really? I wish she would come in my dream too!”

“She will. I will teach you the Thevaram, Mangayarkarasi. You sing it with devotion and perhaps she will appear in your dream too.”

Akshit nodded, wondering where he would find the time to learn all this with his mid-term examinations around the corner. He was studious and determined to be the topper in his class. His thoughts were always on academics, much to Padma’s concern. She wanted him to learn music too. He had such a soulful voice.

“Have you heard about Rous Pandian?” asked Padma.

“Rous Pandian! What a name, Paati! No, I haven’t. Go on. I can see from your eyes that a story is coming!”

“Actually, his name was Peter Rous. He was the Collector of Madurai during the British rule and took charge in 1812. He held office for several years and is remembered in Madurai for his affection towards Goddess Meenakshi.”

“I am sure he was a Christian, Paati. That’s remarkable!”

“Yes. But Meenakshi captured the hearts of people irrespective of who they were. It is said that Peter Rous would pass by the temple on horseback every day. He is also remembered as a Collector who respected the religious sentiments of the people, he got down from his horse removed his footwear as a mark of respect”

“Hmm… tell me more.”

“Once, when he was on a hunting expedition, an elephant suddenly chased him. He prayed to Goddess Meenakshi and managed to shoot the elephant with a single shot.”

“Oh! But poor elephant, Paati! Why did they kill it?”

“Well, perhaps the rules were different in those days. To save a life, killing an attacking animal was considered acceptable.”

Akshit nodded thoughtfully.

“But that is not the most interesting part of the story,” continued Padma.

“Of course not!” laughed Akshit. “I knew there was more coming.”

“One night, during a period of heavy rain when the Vaigai was in spate, Peter Rous was sleeping in his mansion. It was the middle of the night when he suddenly woke up.”

“Why?”

“He heard the sound of anklets.”

“Anklets?”

“Yes. And then he heard a sweet little voice calling, ‘Peter, Peter…’”

“Ha ha, Paati! You made this up!”

“Not at all da! Go Google it!”

“Okay, okay. Then what happened?”

“Peter got up and followed the voice. He saw a beautiful little girl, about three years old, dressed in a silk skirt. She beckoned him to follow her.

“Peter, almost as if hypnotised, followed the little girl. She ran towards the temple and suddenly disappeared.

“Then he heard a deafening sound.

“When he turned around, he saw that his mansion had been struck by lightning. Flames were rising from the building.

“Peter was speechless. He had escaped from the very place where he had been sleeping only moments earlier.

“And the little girl was nowhere to be seen.”

Akshit was silent for a moment.

“Wasn’t he scared, Paati?”

“Of course he must have been. But the people of Madurai had their own explanation. They believed that the little girl was none other than Goddess Meenakshi herself.”

“Really?”

“Yes. There is a tradition that Goddess Meenakshi appeared as a three-year-old girl on three occasions. The first was when Malayuthavaja Pandian and Kanchanamalai performed a Putrakameshti Yagam praying for a child. The second was associated with the poet Kumaraguruparar and his Meenakshi Amman Pillai Tamizh. And the third, according to this legend, was for Peter Rous.”

“Wow!”

“Yes. And Peter Rous is said to have been deeply moved by what had happened.”

“What did he do?”

“As a mark of gratitude to the Goddess, he is said to have offered a pair of gold stirrups, studded with precious rubies and diamonds , for Meenakshi.”

“Golden stirrups?”

“Yes. With his name associated with them. Even today, during the Chithirai Thiruvizha, when Goddess Meenakshi comes out on the golden horse, these famous golden stirrups are part of the decoration. They are popularly known as Peter Padhuka. Some people affectionately called Rous Peter ‘Peter Pandian’ or ‘Rous Pandian’.”

“Can we see those golden shoes when we visit Madurai?”

“Yes. During the Chithirai festival. I will show you a picture of them. I found one online.”

Akshit studied the picture carefully.

“Wow, Paati! So this is a true story!”

“Of course it is true, Akshit! His name Peter is also engraved on it” laughed Padma.

She shook her head.

Her grandson had reached the age when he no longer believed every single story she told him. Now he had to Google everything and check the facts for himself.

Nevertheless, Padma was proud of him.

“There is one more interesting thing,” she continued.

“What?”

“After his term as Collector ended, Rous Peter is said to have refused to return to England. He chose to remain in Madurai.”

“Really?”

“Yes. And when he died, he was buried in St George’s Church. There is also a tradition that he wanted his grave to face towards Goddess Meenakshi.”

Akshit looked at Padma.

“So a British Collector became so attached to Meenakshi Amman that he stayed back in Madurai?”

“That is what makes the story so beautiful.”

Akshit thought about it for a few seconds.

“Okay, now Chess time! Come on, Paati. I will teach you a cool move I learnt in class yesterday.”

Padma stared at him.

She marvelled at how quickly children could change the train of their thoughts. One moment they were discussing a British Collector, Goddess Meenakshi and a golden pair of stirrups, and the next they were ready for a game of chess.

But Padma’s thoughts were still in Madurai.

In her mind, the streets were filled with devotees, the temple towered over the city and Goddess Meenakshi was preparing to come out on her golden horse.

And somewhere deep within her, without her even realising it, a song began to play.

“Devi Neeye Thunai…”

Her lips moved silently.

“Then Madurai vaazh…”

She smiled. And started listening to Akshit explain the cool chess move!